9. In Ulan Bator, looking for the legendary Mongol throat singers

By Filipe Morato Gomes	Where is Ulan Bator?
I come back to an urban atmosphere in Ulan Bator and I immediately face the characteristics of big Asian cities: chaotic traffic, pollution, noise. But, on the other hand, I got to know the unique Mongolian throat singers and bumped into a traditional Mongol wedding. Here's a picture of Mongolia capital, Ulan Bator.

After wandering across rural Mongolia for a few weeks I felt that I was not used to big cities anymore, moreover when we're talking about Asian cities. Ulan Bator is just like a soft introduction to the chaotic world of huge metropolis in that overcrowded continent. Dreadful traffic, air pollution rates that make the simple act of breathing a hard task, people with masks on their faces - the first impression of Ulan Bator was not the most pleasant one. But it was not that bad either. I foresee nothing can be compared to what I will find in big Chinese cities.

Ulan Bator, Mongolian capital

I walked along the streets of Ulan Bator looking for something very specific. I tried to ask. Since the beginning of this trip I had undertaken the responsibility of getting to know the extraordinary art of Mongol throat singing, which is worldwide unique in the Mongolian singers. An uncle of mine, an eccentric musician who loves weird sounds coming from every corner of the world told me about this art. I found the answer in a café and then decided to attend to a performance. It was a very tourist thing to do but it worth going there anyway. Nobody in the audience got indifferent. Even if the musicality as a whole was monotonous and joyless. But it was unquestionably something unique. And for sure a very, very difficult thing to perform. People clapped their hands. I left the show pleased with the experience.

Outside, another surprise. I bumped into an engaged couple wearing traditional clothes. A marriage ceremony was taking place. They walked along Sukhbaatar, the main square of Ulan Bator. It is rectangle with oversized measures that marks the centre of the town. I got closer. I looked at the couple, attentive to the work done by photographers and cameramen. The godmothers - I supposed they were the godmothers! - wore fine dresses over which they use strips resembled to the ones worn by the winners of female beauty contests.

The married couple noticed my presence. It was not difficult - I was the only one with western face nearby. I asked permission to take a photo. The couple seemed happy by the interest shown. They posed motionless like smiling statues. And they kept on posing. All the time. I couldn't take photos of them having a genuine behaviour. I gave up. “Thank you”, they thank the photographic session. I wished them luck and left to discover Ulan Bator.

A traditional wedding in the streets of Ulan Bator, Mongolia

I realised Ulan Bator has two completely different faces depending on the climate conditions. Sometimes it is grey, dull, without beauty, when a dark sky, pale colours and some rain make strolling along the streets a discomfort. Other times it is beautiful, joyful, interesting even without enchanting, when the sun rays warm the colours of the buildings and the qualities of the city seem to come to life again. I preferred the latter face.

With good weather, I appreciated the architecture of Gandan Tegchilkin Monastery, a compulsory point of pilgrimage for those who visit Ulan Bator. I got myself lost willingly in the narrowest streets, urban spaces where traditional Mongolian gers are located side by side with modern buildings. And re-learned to cross the streets, passing through cars that never stop. In Ulan Bator, traffic was disordered, rules were as if they were inexistent, the horn was the most important gadget in the cars. Crossing the road is an adventure.

I decided to leave and head for the mountains again, towards Terelj National Park, located not far from Ulan Bator. Just for a few days there, to relax. In Terelj I no longer heard the noise of the cars. I remembered the melodies of the throat singing and tried to utter something similar. Tradition is set in front of uncontrolled progress. At least in my mind, under a beautiful 5 a.m. moon that insisted on not disappearing from the horizon over a couple Mongolian gers, some cows and the mountains.

(originally written in Portuguese)

» Read Unexpected melody in the Gobi Desert, Mongolia
» Read Disturbances in greenish Central Mongolia
» Read A special day with a Mongolian family
» See Photos - Gobi Desert, Mongolia
» See Photos - Central Mongolia

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