5. Moon of unusual honey on the Trans-Mongolian railway

By Filipe Morato Gomes	Where is Irkutsk?
As the Trans-Siberian/Mongolian train click-clacked its way to Ulan Bator, I had the privilege of meeting Fran and Richard, a backpacking Chilean couple who were on their honeymoon. I was amazed to hear their story and discover that there are many people for whom marriage does not represent the end of independent travel!

Love is beautiful when it happens. I was able to bear witness to that statement upon my introduction to Fran and Richard, as their presence lead to a wave of comfort that bathed my soul. When I met them, they had been traveling together for some weeks, through countries like Thailand and Vietnam, now Russia, and planned to travel China or whatever country sparked their interest along the way. They had been given the choice of eight days in a paradisiacal island in the Caribbean or the Pacific Ocean, with all the refined pleasures and luxuries, lots of shellfish, and invigorating seascapes. But they had turned it down.

A view of Irkutsk, a main stop along the Trans-Siberian railway

Instead they had chose this - a trip with experiences such as the uncomfortable train where they were forced to sleep, eat, and even make love, carrying their rucksacks on their back just like any other traveler - and were loving it! It was their honeymoon and they chose to do it their way. For most, the honeymoon is a period of time when nothing but the couple themselves matter. Not for Fran and Richard, though. We talked a lot and they promptly extended an invitation for me to visit them in their future home in Santiago, Chile. The friendship was instantaneous, despite the backpacker context.

Next door to the Chilean couple, I shared my compartment with Christian, a friendly Canadian who was teaching English in a private school in Irkutsk. He told me that when he was offered the job, he had had no idea where such a strangely named place could be. “I looked for the location of Irkutsk on a map, and accepted the position immediately”, he said, shrugging his shoulders.

Fran and Richard, my Chilean friends

When he arrived in Irkutsk, Russia, Christian found a city that he neither found charming nor interesting. However, he decided to stay. I understand exactly what Christian meant. During my stay in Irkutsk, I unsuccessfully looked for reasons why it was referred to as “the Paris of Siberia”. However, I came to love the originality of the countless simple yet elegant wooden buildings that sat in the center of town. Windows that were ground height were a common feature of the local architecture. I also noticed a couple of well-tended public and enjoyed the face of the local postcard firsthand - the Drama Theatre. The Drama Theatre was a beautiful building of pleasantly soft colours. However, above all, it was the hospitality of the local people and their willingness to help a confused traveler that I will not forget. Irkutsk is not beautiful for its scenery but I will remember it as a beautiful place because of the way I was treated by the people that I encountered there. And, for a traveler, that is almost more important!

I boarded a train out of Irkutsk generally satisfied with my knowledge of the main urban area of the Siberian region but definitely overjoyed to be able to leave with the unforgettable images of mythic Baikal Lake.

Inside a Russian train along the Trans-Siberian railway, Siberia

Unfortunately, departing from the region, we missed out on one of the few perks the train had to offer - wonderful sights of the Baikal banks on the way to Ulan-Ude, where the railway runs along the shores of the lake. Regrettably, the train passed this segment of the journey at night on our way to Ulan Bator, capital of Mongolia, where we were scheduled to arrive at the new day's dawn.

For me, the time was fast approaching where I would get the chance to unveil a bit of the magic of Mongolia, a wild and exciting country that I would be experiencing for the first time! As far as Fran and Richard were concerned, they continued to enjoy the moon of their unusual honey somewhere in China. I hope to visit them someday; if and when this round-the-world-trip delivers me to Santiago do Chile. I look forward to being reunited with the happy couple. See you then, dear travel mates!

(originally written in Portuguese)

» Read Baikal Lake, a Siberian treasure
» Read Life in movement along the Trans-Siberian railway
» See Photos - Baikal Lake, Russia

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