13. Having jasmine tea in Chengdu and playing music in Kunming, simple moments of a travellers' daily life in China

By Filipe Morato Gomes	Where is Chengdu?
China. An entire afternoon sitting in a famous tea house of Chengdu. A morning playing a musical instrument with a group of old men in a park of Kunming. Simple things. But how often the simplest moments are the ones a traveller keeps as the most precious of an entire around the world trip? Travelling in China is not easy, but it is for sure full of good surprises.

I sat down with two good looking Nordic girls and other occasional travel mates, in one of the famous tea houses of Chengdu, a metropolis located in the Chinese province of Sichuan. Around us, dozens of tables full of peaceful-looking people, having a chat and drinking tea, under the coolness of a shade made possible by big trees looking over one hundred years old. Both young and old, mostly Chinese, sharing cups of jasmine tea apparently bottomless, calmly and lengthily, for some time, half an afternoon, much time, the whole afternoon. Time passed slowly in these agreeable open-air spaces. The atmosphere was exceptionally relaxing.

Having a cup of jasmine tea at a famous tea house in Chengdu, Sichuan province, China

It was nearly dark when I sipped the last draught of one more cup of jasmine tea and left the tea house to meet the bustle of Chengdu centre. A total contrast compared to what I had just experienced. Noise, pollution, too many people, chaos. Just as in most Chinese big cities. Yet I felt that I had already got used to atmospheric pollution, breathing was still a difficult task. Masks swarm on the natives' faces. I didn't get surprised any more seeing a mask on a face, after realising how common it is. Not seeing the sun clearly, above this darkish fog that constant hovers over my head, is something you accept as inevitable after being in China for some weeks.

But I did get surprised when some days latter I got to Kunming, southwards. I saw a blue sky over the buildings that mark the horizon of that modern capital of Yunan province. It was just a transitory illusion, since reality soon made masks appear again on natives' faces. As well as the same non-stop noise. In spite of that, Kunming was a well-cared town, with pleasant streets, elegant green areas and a reasonable urban structure. However even there, in the centre of the city, you can hardly breathe without inhaling litres of toxic gases. Except if you go away from town. That was exactly what I decided to do.

A view from Kunming, Yunnan, China

I seek shelter in a park in the outskirts of Kunming. As soon as I got there, I listened to the sounds of several instruments amongst the singing of birds. I also heard female voices. Traditional music. I got closer and was immediately welcomed with open smiles. A group of a dozen kind-looking old men was playing handmade musical instruments. They invite me to take a seat. I listened to the sounds coming from the instruments, delighted. During a short break between two songs I asked them, curious:

- “Do you come here often to sing and play music?”, I asked.
- “Every afternoon”, the old men answered in unison.
- “Everyday?”, I was surprised, visualizing the same group of people gathering to play the same songs, day after day.
- “Yes. We're friends, we're retired, there's nothing better we can do. And, besides, as we live nearby, we don't have pay the entrance fee to visit park. We don't know any other place which could be better for us to meet and play our music”, they explained. “Would you like to join us?” And they handed me one of the instruments.

Playing music with a group of old Chinese men in a park of Kunming

Maybe the way I looked has betrayed me. As a matter of fact, I was feeling like playing. They didn't expect me to know what to do with that round wooden bit and a handcrafted reed. I'm familiar with the art of playing acoustic guitar and other musical instruments and this one was very basic and simple. They stared at me, surprised with me spontaneous performance. And they were happy to share this moment with me.

I improvised a melody and the group folowed me with their own instruments. I was really enchanted. It was a perfect interchange. I felt like, for a moment, I belonged to this group of old retired Chinese men. Put together by the music, showing mutual respect and admiration. These are the simple moments that make travelling the world such a wonderful thing.

(originally written in Portuguese)

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