4. Baikal Lake, a Siberian treasure

By Filipe Morato Gomes	Where is Baikal Lake?
After the first part of my Trans-Siberian journey, I fell in love with a place called Olkhon Island. It is a small island in Baikal Lake, amazing in its pure simplicity. Despite its lack of luxuries, it was love at first sight! Needless to say, visiting Olkhon Island was an invigorating experience after three and a half days confined to a Russian train.

My only source of nighttime light on Olkhon Island came form a small candle set on a coarse, old wooden board. The water that I used to wash myself came from rustic barrels similar to those used to store oil. Toilet was used as a euphemism for the rectangular hole on a floor of lined planks that I used. Showers, fans, electric lights were all considered useless commodities in this place. However, without hesitation, Khuzhir, the main village of Olkhon Island, was the first great passion that I encountered on my around the world journey.

A view of a small bay near Khuzhir, Olkhon island, Baikal Lake

Khuzhir is a strip of land on Olkhon Island that is washed by the waters of Bailkal Lake, which is classified as a World Heritage site by UNESCO. In this amazing place, I shared a small and modest dwelling with David, a good-tempered Englishman in his forties. He was a fine companion for the adventures we would face together on that island. He told me that he intended to cross Tibet, heading for Nepal. He would travel form Lhasa to Kathmandu riding his bicycle up and down each and every height! I know that David is a brave man, but I found that I could use no word but crazy to describe such a risky journey-a motivating craziness, nonetheless.

In an attempt to train for David's crazy journey, we decided to ride to embark on a dozen kilometer ride up the island. We were delighted by the landscape and, from time to time, delighted by the kindness of the natives that we were fortunate enough to meet. They were very curious at the sight of us. I got the impression they were wondering why such strange looking people were passing by their land-at least that is the impression their awed stares gave me. I also had the remarkable experience of what a moment in Godzilla's shoes would feel like, for as David and I passed by the native children, they turned and ran away, frightened at the strange sight of us. It was then I was struck with a moment of introspection-I was reminded that respect for others in their own space should always take precedent to the natural curiosity for new cultures and peoples that many a traveler has experienced.

David cycling in Olkhon Island

Astonished by the natives, I turned to their landscape, only to be no less astonished by it! The lake that surrounded us, the plains, and the small forests made for an ever changing scenescape! I noticed small wild camp sites where I was told some Russian families enjoy their summer holidays.

It was on Olkhon Island, in its holy places, that I got my first taste of Shamanism. Shamanism is a religious experience based on the creed of the spirits, on the cult of nature, and which makes use of experiences such as distress and trance.

Myself in an exhaustion-induced trance from biking, stuck out my thumb and hitched a ride back to the village of Khuzhir. A late sun had begun to slide behind the mountain slopes, igniting the sky. The sunset confirmed how little one needs to be fulfilled, as this traveler was overwhelmed by the awesome natural simplicity. Olkhon Island will not soon escape the grips of my mind, and should definitely be kept in mind for those yet to depart.

Later on, I passed Listvyanka, a village situated in the far southern part of Baikal Lake. It is located close to Irkutsk and is a very popular daytime destination. However, by late afternoon, as holidaymakers would disperse, Listvyanka would return to its natural quietness. It was there, in a cozy, local house, that I was able to replenish my energy reserves, and strengthen my tired body in a banya - the Russian name for sauna. This experience not only enabled me the privilege of getting to know some of the locals, but also proved useful in other ways, since a hot water bath, on Olkhon Island, was never more than a mirage!

Upon departure, I was filled with the deep satisfaction this region had gifted me. However, this was accompanied by the sinking feeling that I had not stayed near long enough. Because I loved it, because I could identify with these natural areas, because I felt incredibly whole, I really wanted to stay longer. I really wanted to go around the entire lake and get to know it, end to end, without all the rush. However, I had made up my mind and decided to head south, though I felt I had missed out on many significant parts of Baikal Lake. I hoped that the many different landscapes as well as many new experiences I was to encounter could seduce me with the same intensity as this amazing place had. And Mongolia did not disappoint...

(originally written in Portuguese)

Author's note: I exchanged a couple of e-mail messages with David a few months later. He did it. He actually rode a bicycle from Kathmandu to Lhasa.

» Read Life in movement along the Trans-Siberian railway
» See Photos - Baikal Lake, Russia

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