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Travelogue - travel stories from around the world
These are the English versions of the travel articles I wrote (originally written in Portuguese) while travelling around the world. Every week, during 14 months, I sent a text and photos to get published in the Saturday travel supplement of a major daily Portuguese newspaper called Público. Here you'll find 65 travel stories from Russia, Mongolia, China, Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand, Laos, Sri Lanka, Myanmar, Malaysia, Singapore, Bali, East Timor, Australia, Chile, Bolivia, Peru, Argentina, Brazil and Venezuela. Let's travel around the world, shall we?
Asia | Southeast Asia | Borneo, Bali and East Timor | Australia | South America
EUROPE
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1. First day of a round the world trip
It's not a fantasy, I realize - the big dream is actually beginning! These are a few excerpts from the adventure story that has surely become the most rewarding chapter of my life: my first trip around the world. travel article »
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2. In Moscow with two lovely Russian women
Upon arrival in Moscow, Russia, I was taken under the wings of two lovely women, Sasha and Irina, who proved to be amazing hosts. Instead of having to spend big money in an expensive hotel, these ladies welcomed me into their homes, and escorted me through beautiful Moscow and a select few restaurants and bars. I even got a local's glimpse at a private religious ceremony that Irina brought me to. I could not have been luckier. travel to Moscow »
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ASIA
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3. Life in movement along the Trans-Siberian railway
Travelling along the mythic Trans-Siberian railway was a memorable - although sometimes tough - experience. But three and a half days on a Russian train, travelling for thousands of miles, right in the beginning of an around the world trip, might well not be the best choice. With a Trans-Siberian ticket in my hand I jumped on a train for that long... and that made me think too much. travel on the Trans-Siberian »
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4. Baikal Lake, a Siberian treasure
After the first Trans-Siberian part of the journey, I instantly felt in love with Olkhon Island, a small island on Baikal Lake and an amazing simple place. Even thought I had no luxuries at all, it was love at the first sight. An invigorating experience after three and a half days on a Russian train. travel to Baikal Lake »
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5. Moon of unusual honey on the Trans-Mongolian railway
On the way to Ulan Bator, still along the Trans-Siberian and Trans-Mongolian railways, I met Fran and Richard, a Chilean couple backpacking during their honeymoon. I was amazed to know their story and to realize that there are many people out there to whom marriage doesn't necessarily imply stop travelling in an independent way. travel to Irkutsk »
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6. Unexpected melody in the Gobi Desert, Mongolia
I could never think of such a surrealistic event. I was in Dalanzadgad, a remote village in the heart of the Mongolian Gobi Desert, when I heard the sounds of a known song. It made me sing and smile. Like Mongolia itself, an amazing country to travel in. travel to Gobi Desert »
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7. Disturbances in greenish Central Mongolia
After a week travelling in the Gobi Desert, arriving in Central Mongolia provided a very welcome change in the landscape. Water, green sceneries, wildlife, we saw it all. But not everything was perfect. Disturbances happened, Mongolian style. travel to central Mongolia »
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8. A special day with a Mongolian family
In the heart of rural Mongolia, an unpredictable change of plans leaded me to the friendlier Mongolian family I met so far. Welcomed like nowhere else by extremely poor people with a big heart, I will never forget that day, where completely different persons shared laughs, smiles and domestic activities without a single word in common. travel to Mongolia »
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9. In Ulan Bator, looking for the legendary Mongol throat singers
I come back to an urban atmosphere in Ulan Bator and I immediately face the characteristics of big Asian cities: chaotic traffic, pollution, noise. But, on the other hand, I got to know the unique Mongolian throat singers and bumped into a traditional Mongol wedding. Here's a picture of Mongolia capital, Ulan Bator. travel to Ulan Bator »
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10. Back to school in Beijing, China
In cosmopolitan Beijing, China, I went back to the good old school times joining my friend Richard - a long-time worldwide backpacker - in a conversational English class. And I also got to know the surprising Beijing wondering along the streets of the new and old quarters, before I walked in the Great Wall of China. travel to Beijing »
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11. The sweet flavour from the past, in Pingyao, China
I left Beijing and travelled by train to Pingyao, a small village on the way to Xi'an classified as a UNESCO World Heritage site. Wondering along the streets of Pingyao was like going back to Chinese past. Amazing! And surprisingly enough, in the heart of China, I ended up remembering the sweet flavour of a good old Port wine. travel to Pingyao »
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12. On a Chinese tour to Jiuzhaigou National Park, Sichuan province
I decided to book an excursion to Jiuzhaigou National Park in which, apart from three Israeli friends, all tourists were Chinese. Even thought the smoking and the spiting were not a problem, when we got to Jiuzhaigou the four of us had to leave the group. It was the only way we could properly appreciate beauty of the park. Tourist guides and coloured flags are definitely not for me. travel to Jiuzhaigou »
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13. Having jasmine tea in Chengdu and playing music in Kunming, simple moments of a travellers' daily life in China
China. An entire afternoon sitting in a famous tea house of Chengdu. A morning playing a musical instrument with a group of old men in a park of Kunming. Simple things. But how often the simplest moments are the ones a traveller keeps as the most precious of an entire around the world trip? Travelling in China is not easy, but it is for sure full of good surprises. travel to Kunming and Chengdu »
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14. Having dinner with Angelina, the virgin girl from Yangshuo, China
"In Yangshuo you can relax from travelling in China", a fellow traveller had told me. So I decided to head for Yangshuo, Guilin province, a westernized small village in Southern China. I cycled along the rice fields of Yangshuo before I got to know a Chinese girl that decided to have a surgery done to become a virgin again. travel to Yangshuo »
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SOUTHEAST ASIA
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15. Kayaking in fabulous Halong Bay, Vietnam
After arriving in Hanoi, capital of Vietnam, I immediately headed for Halong Bay, where I kayaked in one of the most stunning natural sceneries I've ever seen. Located in the north of Vietnam, Halong Bay is undoubtedly a charming place, and kayaking is a great way of getting to know it. Welcome aboard. travel to Halong Bay »
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16. The ethnic minorities of Sapa, northwest of Vietnam
I trekked in the mountains surrounding Sapa, in the northeast of Vietnam, no more than a night train journey away from capital Hanoi. These were days in the mountains surrounded by Vietnamese ethnic minorities with they own beliefs, culture, way of dressing and... rice wine. No matter if you like big cities like Hanoi or trekking in a mountainous rural region, Vietnam is an amazing country for a traveller. travel to Sapa »
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17. The tailors of Hoi An, Vietnam
Going south after visiting Hanoi, Sapa and Halong Bay, I stopped at the picturesque village of Hoi An, a favourite stop for backpackers travelling along the coast of Vietnam where I met Marie again. After three months on my own having a travel mate was a very welcome change and therefore, being Hoi An famous for the cheap handmade clothes and shoes, I ended up spending a couple of afternoons clothing-shopping. travel to Hoi An »
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18. Simple pleasures in the tropical scenery of Mui Ne, Vietnam
I found a charming bungalow somewhere in the long beach of Mui Ne and let myself relax in the tropical beauty of this Vietnamese paradise. Mui Ne is the kind of place where time passes very slowly and pleasantly but, fortunately or not, many travellers prefer the livelier Nha Trang a few hours north of Mui Ne. As for me, I could have stayed for ages in this part of Vietnam but other surprises were waiting for me further south. travel to Mui Ne »
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19. The marks of a war time couldn't erase yet, in Saigon, Southern Vietnam
I arrived in Saigon, Vietnam, and words like napalm or Agent Orange became outrageously familiars. Not only at the War Museum of Saigon, but also on the streets. These are the marks of an absurd war that time couldn't erase yet. travel to Saigon »
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20. Khmer Rouge, the dark side of Human Nature in Phnom Penh, Cambodia
I entered Cambodia thinking I was ready to face the sinister horrors perpetrated by Pol Pot and his Khmer Rouge militias. But I soon realize that there are things you will never be prepared to face. It all happened in Phnom Penh, Cambodian capital. travel to Phnom Penh »
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21. The forgotten side of Angkor Wat, Cambodia
I visited the magnificent temples of Angkor and got amazed by the unusual beauty of Ta Prohm, almost certainly the most spectacular temple of Ankgor Wat complex. But I also got to know Aki Ra, an extraordinary men which is working alone to try to make Cambodia a safer place. travel to Angkor Wat »
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22. The marvellous hands of Thai masseurs
I spent some time in Bangkok, where I had the chance to attend to a full moon party on the streets around the infamous Khao San Road and Chao Phraya River, before moving to Koh Samet and try for the first time a wonderful Thai massage on the beach. Bangkok and Koh Samet - two completely different places worth visiting. travel to Bangkok And Koh Samet »
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23. From Chiang Mai to Phuket and Khao Lak, a change of plans right after the tsunami
I visited the attractive city of Chiang Mai before leaving civilization behind and immerse myself in a forest in Northern Thailand. But the tragic news about the tsunami made me change my travel plans. I went straight away to Phuket, where I saw paradisiacal sceneries turned into death fields. No word will ever describe the horror of what my eyes saw in Khao Lak, Thailand. travel to Phuket »
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25. Considerations about working as a photojournalist in tsunami devastated areas
Emotionally speaking, the tsunami was undoubtedly the most difficult moment I had in my trip. Right after the tsunami hit Thailand and Sri Lanka I went there to work as a photojournalist for a Portuguese newspaper. Many volunteers went there to help and participate in tsunami relief operations and they were braver than me. I had a hard time working with my camera. Considerations about a profession I do respect a lot: journalist. travel article »
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29. Moustache Brothers, laughing against the regime
I arrive in Mandalay with very clear goals in my mind. I'd like to visit the eccentric U'Bein Bridge, in Amarapura, do a boat trip until the extraordinary Mingun Pagoda and feel the irreverent spirit of the Moustache Brothers, the most famous troupe of comedians in Myanmar. It's time to laugh against the military regime that rules the country. travel to Mandalay »
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30. Sunset at Bagan temples, Myanmar (Burma)
I arrived in Bagan, Myanmar almost dead after the worst bus journey of this part of the trip through Southeast Asia. The temples of Bagan are famous worldwide for its overwhelming beauty and I decided to visit them for a couple of days. There were a lot of tourists around but, nevertheless, there's no words to describe a lovely sunset seem from a deserted small temple of Bagan. travel to Bagan »
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31. In Koh Lanta, still waiting for tourists to come back two months after the tsunami
I learned how to dive in crystal-clear waters of Koh Tao, in Gulf of Thailand, before I got lost in the wild nights of crazy Koh Phangan. I then decided to check out what was going on further south on a place affected by the tsunami, Koh Lanta, a lovely island located on the Andaman Sea. People were still waiting for the tourists to come back, two months after the tsunami. travel to Koh Lanta »
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32. The blue of the sea, the yellow of the moon and the green of the tea, in Malaysia
I entered modern Malaysia and headed straight away to the paradisiacal Perhentian Islands. Perhentian are two islands with an incredible beauty, aimed for divers and non-divers, and the place where I re-encounter my own language. I then travelled to the green lands of Cameron Highlands, in Central Malaysia. Malaysian first impression was promising to become a highlight of the all trip. travel article »
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34. A Singapore without skyscrapers
I arrived in Singapore, the most organized, efficient and clean big city of the world, but I found a Singapore miles away from the preconceived idea of a consumer's paradise and a business centre, with huge skyscrapers and nothing else to see. Cosy streets with beautiful little houses - that's where I got lost in Singapore, a country where nothing happens by chance. travel to Singapore »
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BORNEO, BALI AND EAST TIMOR
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36. Sipadan, the divers' paradise that Abu Sayyaff invaded
Diving in Sipadan is on top of many divers' wish list and I was so close that I decide to go there just to scuba dive. What an underwater paradise! Sipadan Island itself is closed to tourism now, to protect fragile ecosystems and the marine species from too many divers. Dive centres are located in Mabul instead, but Sipadan is still remembered as the island that was attacked by the terrorist group Abu Sayyaff years ago. travel to Mabul and Sipadan »
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37. Bali, after the moment that have shaken Kuta and the traditional Balinese harmony
Bali is still trying to recover from that sad moment. In Kuta, Balinese tourist capital, people are worried about the future. They ask tourists to travel to Bali, assure Bali is safe and don't understand why it all happened to them. "We are peaceful people", a taxi-driver told me with tears in his eyes. travel to Bali »
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38. The spirits stroll freely in the streets of Ubud, Bali
In Ubud, Bali, I entered in a world of mysticism, secular traditions and strong beliefs. Wearing a Balinese sarong, I attended to a religious ceremony that only takes place every two hundred and ten days. All that happened in Ubud, undoubtedly the heart of a different Bali - the one that travellers can't see in wild Kuta. travel to Ubud »
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AUSTRALIA
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43. When a rainbow hugs Uluru (Ayers Rock)
In a visit to the semi-arid heart of Australia, I sleep in the open air in the middle of nowhere under an immensely starred sky, near the stunning Kings Canyon, the curious Olgas and the reddish Uluru. The Australian Outback is incredible. But I also watch tourists that, unfortunately, doesn't show any respect for the beliefs and traditional laws of the Anangu indigenous people. travel to Uluru »
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46. Balmain, from a workers' district to an elegant suburb of Sydney
I flew from Hobart, Tasmania to Sydney, my last Australian stop before heading to South America. While in Sydney, I appreciated the charming Balmain district, downtown Sydney and the unique architecture of the Sydney Opera House, before saying goodbye to Australia eating a typical Portuguese meal. A very good week! travel to Sydney »
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SOUTH AMERICA
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48. From brownish Atacama Desert to the white salt flats of Bolivia
I entered the sad landscapes of Atacama Desert, Northern Chile, where everything is completely dry and brown. I then visited some astonishing lagoons on the Andes, horse rode thought the sand of the desert, warmed up in geothermic geysers and appreciated the elegance of flamingos. And then white colour started to dominate the scenery, preannouncing what I'll meet at the amazing Bolivian salt flats of Uyuni. travel to Atacama »
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52. Inti Raymi, Inca Tribute to the Sun in the streets of old Cuzco
I arrived in Cuzco - the gateway to known Machu Picchu and the famous Inca trail - during the liveliest dates of local calendar. Cuzco was celebrating the Inti Raymi, a joyful Inca tribute to the sun. Meanwhile, I also visited the stunning ruins of Machu Picchu, a sacred place for Inca civilization and one of the last Inca known cities. It was a memorable week. travel to Cuzco »
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53. Recreating the sounds of Carlos Gardel, the tango icon of Buenos Aires, Argentina
I travelled to Buenos Aires coming from Mendoza, a quick change from the taste of a good wine to the sounds of Argentinean tango. Wandering along the streets of San Telmo, a bohemian quarter in the heart of Buenos Aires, I noticed that tango - old and new - is everywhere in the capital of Argentina. After the classic sounds of Carlos Gardel, it's now the electro-tango that is conquering Buenos Aires. travel to Buenos Aires »
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55. Sprinkles of pleasure in Iguazu Falls
On my way back to Argentina after a short stay in neighbour Uruguay, I visited Esteros del Iberá National Park, a mixture of swamps and lagoons full of wildlife that forms a sort of a small version of Brazilian Pantanal. I prayed for the rain to end before following to Iguazu Falls, between Argentina and Brazil, where millions of sprinkles over my body were nothing but a pleasure. Iguazu Falls are truly an unforgettable site. travel to Iguazu Falls »
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56. A week in Bonito, the gateway to Brazilian Pantanal
Bonito is a cute little town famous not only for the natural beauty of its surroundings, but primarily for being the main gateway to Brazilian Pantanal, an ecotourism paradise. I did snorkelling in crystal clear waters of attractive rivers, visited popular caves and immersed myself into Bonito Winter Festival that was taking place in the city. That was when I met Pereira da Viola, an incredible - yet unknown - Brazilian artist. travel to Bonito »
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